Ah, Sunday mornings! Time at your hand, the world at your feed, places to explore!
This past Sunday, we set off for Pozo de Agua, eager to explore its famed laguna and discover the birdlife it would hopefully harbor. Ideally, we figured, we’d have to get there early to make the most of the day – but as these things go we snoozed a couple of alarms, trading in some early morning birding for much needed sleep.
Still, we managed to leave just before 6am for the two hour drive to Pozo de Agua. Our excitement was palpable as we arrived in the self-proclaimed “Pueblo mistico”, the mystic town. Soon enough, however, our stomachs started to growl in protest as we realized we had forgotten to pack breakfast, and the town, albeit mystic, seemed full of cows but devoid of eateries. Thankfully, a friendly local pointed us in the direction of a culinary gem – a local lady’s humble home.

Now, these things just don’t happen in Europe. There will be no local lady preparing food in exchange for a voluntary donation on a Sunday morning, inviting in two complete strangers without advance warning. Here, however, we were greeted with warmth and hospitality. She led us to a simple table in the back and prepared a hearty breakfast of Gallo Pinto, unbelievably delicious scrambled eggs, and fresh coffee.
Finally, we were energized enough to visit the laguna – and the sight that greeted us was nothing short of spectacular. Hundreds of birds, including herons, egrets, wood storks, and even a majestic Jabiru (our first for 2024) were enjoying this wonderful oasis, water in dry season. Despite the heat and wind, this was stunning! This is easy, relaxed, drive-up birding, with a little trail that leads past the main laguna. Following the trail turned out a bit more adventurous than expected: Cows almost charging and crocodiles a little closer to the trail than is comfortable for me.
But regardless, it’s an easy conclusion to me: Everyone driving past or staying near the town of Nicoya should plan the little detour to visit Pozo de Agua. It’s a charming town with lovely locals and a birdwatching paradise. Apparently there are boat tours if the water levels allow for it (alas, not any more in late February). Do plan ahead though: There are no easy food options in Pozo de Agua, nor did there seem to be in the nearby Puerto Humo. Either pack lunch or reach out to the locals who arrange trips and food here.
Interested in visiting Pozo de Agua? I haven’t gotten around to doing a full video on the place yet, but if you’re curious about it beyond “just birds”, I highly recommend checking out Mark Wiens’ fantastic episode on Guanacaste. Towards the end, they visit Pozo de Agua.